Bayon, Angkor Thom: 6 Oct 2003
  
  'The Golden Tower'. It is undeniably an expression of the highest genius. It is the materialization of Buddhist cosmology, representing ideas that only great painters would dare to portray... it is not just an architectural miracle, it is in reality the world of the gods springing up from the heart of ancient Cambodia...  
  

 

Reflections

To be seen only during the wet season, the moat around the Bayon casts a stunning reflection of this majestic temple. Standing in the exact geographical centre of the city of Angkor Thom, the Bayon is a Buddhist temple built by Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century.

   
  

Grand Entrance

The main entrance is from the east, with a raised platform leading to the outer gallery.

 
  

Outer Windows

The Bayon was built nearly 100 years after Angkor Wat. Jayavarman VII's goal was to rebuild the capital and to bring to the kingdom a new vibrancy, signifying a bright future for the Khmers.

 
 

Ancient Tales

The outer (or first) gallery depicts wonderful scenes of daily life... markets, fishing, festivals with cockfights and jugglers... and of historical scenes with battles and processions.

   
  

Detailed Study

The bas-reliefs of the Bayon are more deeply carved than that at Angkor Wat. The scenes are presented mostly in two or three horizontal panels, the lower one shows the foreground, whereas the upper tier present scenes of the horizon.

   
  

Ancient Kitchen

This outer gallery was probably open to all worshippers, whereas the other inner areas of the temple would have been restricted to priests and the king.

   
  

Apsaras

The decoration on the pillars have unique motif comprising two or three apsaras dancing gracefully.

   
  

Demure

Of demure goddesses, standing in grace and harmony.

   
  

Frames

The multitude of narrow corridors and dark atriums makes an interesting and mysterious place to explore.

   
  

Girl

The Bayon vies with Angkor Wat as the favorite monument among visitors. The two temples evoke similar aesthetic responses yet are so different in purpose, design, architecture and decoration.

   
  

Middle Sanctuary

The galleries in the second level are separated by rooms and cells. The bas relief here depict mythological subjects of Hindu inspiration.

   
  

Soothsayer

Fortune tellers and nuns share the sheltered inner corridors... money is the main incentive for their presence.

   
  

Labyrinth

The Bayon is a mystical place of stooped corridors, precipitous flights of stairs, and a collection of 54 gothic towers decorated with over 200 smiling, gargantuan faces.

   
  

The Door Beyond

The basic structure of the Bayon is a simple one of three levels, which corresponds to three distinct phases of building. The first two levels are square and adorned with bas-reliefs. They lead up to a third circular level, where the the architectural climax is to be found.

   
  

Highest Level

Unlike Angkor Wat which looks impressive both close up and from a distance, the Bayon looks like a muddle of rocks from a distance. It's only when one enters the temple and making one's way up to the third level that its magic appears.

   
  

Sitting Pretty

Chaperoning the visitors are many of these "security guards", checking for pass validity and preventing vandalism.

   
  

A Broken Nose

As one walks around the upper level, a dozen or more of the visages are visible at any one time... either in full face or in profile, almost level with one's eyes or peering down from on high.

   
  

Smiles

Over 200 large faces carved on the 54 towers give this temple its majestic character. It is these faces that have such appeal to visitors and reflect the famous "smile of Angkor"

   
  

Enigmatic

"The faces with slightly curving lips, eyes placed in shadow by the lowered lids utter not a word and yet force you to guess much"

   
  

Placid

The Khmer empire was divided into 54 provinces at the time of Bayon's construction, hence the all seeing eyes of Avalokiteshvara could have been intended to keep watch on the kingdom's far-flung subjects.

   
  

Luscious

The iconography of the four faces has been widely debated by scholars. Although most think they represent the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, in keeping with the Buddhist character of the temple, others think the four faces on each of the towers are images of King Jayarvarman VII and thus signifying the omnipresence of the king.

   
  

A Special Place

The shifting light as the sun moves about the faces produces new shadows and highlights. The multitude of faces at different levels affords endless fascination.

   
  

Inner Sanctum

The central circular mass is a shape that is uncommon in Khmer art. Originally there were eight shrines which were later increased to 16. The faces on the four sides of the eight towers marking the cardinal directions are exceptionally dramatic depictions. The interior of the central sanctuary is a cell surrounded by a narrow passage.

   
  

Monuments

"Godliness in the majesty and the size; mystery in the expression"

   
  

Windows

Every corner, every room offers opportunity for bewilderment and excitement.

   
  

Giant Zig Zaw

Like a giant zig zaw puzzle, many pieces of collapsed walls with reliefs, mixed up and staced into piles awaiting the puzzle to be solved... one day.

 

  

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